"Ask the Savvy Cyclist" Q & A/Advice
Got a question about biking in New York? Ask our Savvy Cyclist about it. New responses will be posted regularly.
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Choosing a bike for a child
Q: I want to buy my child a bicycle for the holidays. What bike should I get?
A: Dear Santa,
Bicycles make wonderful gifts! Here are some things to keep in mind as you shop.
Where to buy: Department stores or bike shops?
If your child doesn't yet know how to ride without training wheels, give the gift of balance by bringing him or her to the next session of the free Teach Your Child to Ride a Bike class.
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Pumping up tires
Q: I recently started riding to work and want to be sure to take good care of my bike. How often should I inflate my tires, and how much is enough?
A: Dear Pumped-Up Commuter,
You're smart to ask about this. Bike tires gradually lose air pressure, and riding with under-inflated tires makes you work much harder, wears your tires out faster, and makes it much easier to get a flat tire. Here's what you need to know.
How Often
Check your tire pressure and re-inflate about once a week. (If you ride less than once a week, re-inflate every time your ride.)
What You Need
Your tire's pressure rating is stamped somewhere on the sidewall. It may say "PSI" (pounds per square inch), "Maximum Pressure," or "Inflate to . . . " and will usually give a range (for example, 90-120 PSI, or 35-60 PSI). Inflating to the lower number in the pressure range will increase traction and make your ride more comfortable. Inflating to the higher number will make your ride more efficient and will decrease your chances of getting a flat tire.
Pumping Up with Schrader Valves
Schrader valves are the same type of valve that car tires have. Inflate as follows:
If you can't get the pump head onto the valve correctly, or if air escapes, try these tricks.
Solution 1: Use the valve-head-locking lever correctly.
(Some pumps may have a very different locking mechanism. Read your pump's instruction manual or experiment with its locking mechanism so you know how it works.)
Solution 2: Make sure the parts in your pump head are configured to fit the type of valve on your tube. If your pump has two heads, use the larger fitting for Schrader valves and the smaller fitting for presta. If your pump has one, reversible head, unscrew the front cap of the valve head and pull out the two inner parts (a soft rubber cylinder, and a hard plastic object with a point on one end).
For Presta, the two inner parts should be turned so that the narrow hole on the first rubber part points out, and the pointy end of the hard plastic piece points in; these two parts should fit together snugly.
For Schrader, the two inner parts should be turned so that the wide hole on the first rubber part points out, and the pointy end of the hard plastic piece also points out; these two parts should fit together snugly.
Some pump heads have heads designed to fit both types of valves without reversing the inner parts; read your pump's owners manual.
If your tube is a presta, and your pump head is not designed with reversible parts, or you don't want to change the configuration from Schrader, simply use a presta valve adapter with your Schrader pump head; open the presta valve and then screw the adapter onto it. The presta adapter installs so that the threaded end is on top, like the threaded end of the Schrader valve.
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Best bike for a beginner?
Q: I haven't been on a bike since I was a teenager (20 years ago) except for just briefly last year while traveling. I want to get back into cycling, but I'm not sure what is the best (and not too expensive) bike to purchase for me and my teenage daughter. I want something I can use for the Five Boro as well as for recreational cycling. Thank you.
A: Dear Returning Cyclist,
Many new and returning cyclists ask this question. More styles of bicycles are available now than there used to be, which makes choosing even more confusing.
New cyclist seeks advice about sore butt
Q: I am pleased to say I have been bit by the biking bug, but boy does my bottom hurt! I have been riding everyday for almost two weeks now and am enjoying the outdoors, freedom, and exercise. I have a standard run-of-the-mill mountain bike and my seat was not very comfortable. This resulted in a sore bottom for a couple of days . . . so I purchased a new "gel cushion" seat to no avail . . . still sore. Do you think a full-suspension bike would help?
I would like something I can ride around NYC/Brooklyn and upstate NY. Any advice would be much appreciated. Please save my butt.
A: Dear Bummed in Brooklyn,
I have some bad news for you: Bike butt is a normal breaking-in process, and you can't totally avoid it when you're starting out. But with the right gear and riding methods, you can minimize or almost eliminate it. Here are some tips:
Got a question about biking in New York? Ask our Savvy Cyclist about it. New responses will be posted regularly.
E-mail a Question >
Archive
- Choosing a bike for a child (December 2007)
- Pumping up tires (October 2007)
- Best bike for a beginner? (April 2007)
- New cyclist seeks advice about sore butt (December 2006)
Choosing a bike for a child
Q: I want to buy my child a bicycle for the holidays. What bike should I get?
A: Dear Santa,
Bicycles make wonderful gifts! Here are some things to keep in mind as you shop.
Where to buy: Department stores or bike shops?
- For very basic, single-speed bikes with coaster brakes, many department store models will be similar in quality to offerings at a bike shop, but at a better price.
- Purchase more complicated bikes with suspension, hand brakes, gear systems, or trick features at a bike shop. Bike shop bikes will have better-quality parts that last longer and work with fewer hassles than comparable department store bikes.
- Bike shops will have more knowledgeable staff, and the assembly will be more thorough, which is important for more complicated bikes.
- Most bike shops offer free adjustments for one or more years.
- Kids' bikes are sold by wheel size, not frame size. Standard wheel sizes for kids' bikes are 12", 16", 20", and 24".
- Don't buy a bike that is too large for your child, thinking that she will "grow into it." A bike that's too big will be awkward and difficult to control, and will compromise your child's safety.
- Your child should be able to stand flat-footed while straddling the bike frame, with at least 1" of stand-over clearance above the frame's top tube.
- For surprise gifts, know your child's inseam length and take a tape measure with you while shopping, to ensure the adequate standover clearance.
- As your teen outgrows the largest youth size (24") wheels, adult bicycles come in two main wheel sizes (26" for mountain bikes and most cruisers, and 700c for road bikes and hybrids). Adult bikes are measured by frame size, not wheel size. Frames are measured from the center of the crank bolt to the top of the seat tube.
- For children under 10, keep it simple. Most kids will be happy with a basic single-speed bike with coaster brakes (foot brakes activated by pedaling backward).
- Hand brakes may be too difficult for small hands to pull, or not sufficiently powerful for safe stopping if they are designed for small hands.
- Most kids do not need gear systems or suspension systems on their bike.
- After size, getting the right color will be the most important feature for your child.
- Children older than 10 will start to develop their own cycling interest; get the type of bike that fits what type of riding they like to do.
- Most pre-teens, middle-school kids, and teens love BMX bikes. These 20"- or 24"-wheel bikes are great for cruising around the neighborhood. Some BMX bikes, called "freestyle" or flatland bikes, have special pegs and handlebars for learning tricks and doing stunt riding.
- Most major manufacturers offer mountain bikes with 24" wheels; a front shock will be sufficient, while dual-suspension bikes will usually be overkill, heavy, or complicated for this age group.
- For youngsters who want to hang with you on a long road ride, several manufacturers (Redline, Trek, Specialized) now offer youth-sized road racing bikes.
- Loosen the bolt or quick-release at the top of the frame where the seatpost goes into the frame. Adjust the seatpost up or down, until your child can sit on the seat with the balls of both feet resting on the ground. Or go lower if the child still cannot balance confidently.
- There should be a slight bend at the knee at the bottom of the pedal stroke. If the knee is straight when the pedal is all the way down, lower the seat (or get a smaller bike if necessary). The thigh should be no higher than horizontal at the top of the pedal stroke. If the thigh angles back toward the child, raise the seat (or get a larger bike).
- Don't raise the seat above the "limit line" marked about 3" from the bottom of the seatpost.
- Adjust the angle and height of the handlebar so the child can reach it comfortably.
If your child doesn't yet know how to ride without training wheels, give the gift of balance by bringing him or her to the next session of the free Teach Your Child to Ride a Bike class.
Top ^
Pumping up tires
Q: I recently started riding to work and want to be sure to take good care of my bike. How often should I inflate my tires, and how much is enough?
A: Dear Pumped-Up Commuter,
You're smart to ask about this. Bike tires gradually lose air pressure, and riding with under-inflated tires makes you work much harder, wears your tires out faster, and makes it much easier to get a flat tire. Here's what you need to know.
How Often
Check your tire pressure and re-inflate about once a week. (If you ride less than once a week, re-inflate every time your ride.)
What You Need
- A floor pump with a pressure gauge is ideal.
- If your pump has no gauge, you can purchase a bike tire gauge from a bike shop. (Note: Pressure gauges for car tires may not work well for bike tires due to valve and/or pressure differences.)
- If your bike pump only works with Schrader valves and your tires use presta valves (see below), you may need to purchase a Presta adapter from a bike shop.
Your tire's pressure rating is stamped somewhere on the sidewall. It may say "PSI" (pounds per square inch), "Maximum Pressure," or "Inflate to . . . " and will usually give a range (for example, 90-120 PSI, or 35-60 PSI). Inflating to the lower number in the pressure range will increase traction and make your ride more comfortable. Inflating to the higher number will make your ride more efficient and will decrease your chances of getting a flat tire.
Pumping Up with Schrader Valves
Schrader valves are the same type of valve that car tires have. Inflate as follows:
- Remove the cap on the valve.
- Press the head of your pump firmly onto the valve, and push up the locking lever to form an airtight seal.
- Inflate the tire to your desired pressure within the recommended range.
- When you are done inflating, unlock the lever (push it back down), and quickly pull the pump head off the valve. You will hear a little air escape.
- Re-install the valve cap.
- Unscrew the cap from the valve.
- Unscrew the top of the valve (it is not removable).
- Push the pump head all the way on to the valve and push up the locking lever to form an airtight seal.
- Inflate the tire to your desired pressure within the recommended range.
- When you are done inflating, unlock the lever (push it back down), and quickly pull the pump head off the valve. You will hear some air escape.
- Gingerly screw the top of the presta valve down again. Pushing down on the top of the unscrewed valve allows air to escape.
- Re-install the valve cap.
If you can't get the pump head onto the valve correctly, or if air escapes, try these tricks.
Solution 1: Use the valve-head-locking lever correctly.
| Before you put the pump head onto the valve, the lever should be in the unlocked position, which looks like this on most pumps. | ![]() |
| Once you have pushed the pump head on to the valve firmly, as far as it will go, lock the pump head so the lever looks like this: | ![]() |
Solution 2: Make sure the parts in your pump head are configured to fit the type of valve on your tube. If your pump has two heads, use the larger fitting for Schrader valves and the smaller fitting for presta. If your pump has one, reversible head, unscrew the front cap of the valve head and pull out the two inner parts (a soft rubber cylinder, and a hard plastic object with a point on one end).
For Presta, the two inner parts should be turned so that the narrow hole on the first rubber part points out, and the pointy end of the hard plastic piece points in; these two parts should fit together snugly.
For Schrader, the two inner parts should be turned so that the wide hole on the first rubber part points out, and the pointy end of the hard plastic piece also points out; these two parts should fit together snugly. Some pump heads have heads designed to fit both types of valves without reversing the inner parts; read your pump's owners manual.
If your tube is a presta, and your pump head is not designed with reversible parts, or you don't want to change the configuration from Schrader, simply use a presta valve adapter with your Schrader pump head; open the presta valve and then screw the adapter onto it. The presta adapter installs so that the threaded end is on top, like the threaded end of the Schrader valve.
Top ^
Best bike for a beginner?
Q: I haven't been on a bike since I was a teenager (20 years ago) except for just briefly last year while traveling. I want to get back into cycling, but I'm not sure what is the best (and not too expensive) bike to purchase for me and my teenage daughter. I want something I can use for the Five Boro as well as for recreational cycling. Thank you.
A: Dear Returning Cyclist,
Many new and returning cyclists ask this question. More styles of bicycles are available now than there used to be, which makes choosing even more confusing.
- First, it is important to shop at a bike shop; you will find more knowledgeable staff and better service at a bike shop as compared to a non-specialty retailer. Also, a bike shop should be able to match your needs to the most appropriate bike and fit you to the right frame size. Even the least expensive bikes at bike shops will be more reliable, with their better quality parts, and will almost always be backed up by the shop's policy of offering free adjustments for a period of time.
- Decide how much you can afford to spend on a bike, keeping in mind that you should also include a helmet, lock, and maybe a few health and safety accessories like blinkie lights, a water bottle cage, and a bottle.
- Decide what factors are important to you. Consider different demands--cost, weight, speed, comfort, cargo carrying capacity, and off-road capability--and realize that there are tradeoffs. Some bikes are inexpensive and very comfortable, but are not lightweight or meant to move very fast. Visiting the manufacturers' websites will help acquaint you with the different styles of bikes and the features they offer.
Since you are just getting into cycling, and you want to do longer rides like the Commerce Bank Five Boro Bike Tour and price is a consideration, consider choosing a hybrid. Hybrids are versatile bikes that perform well on pavement and smooth dirt trails. They are designed for a comfortable, upright ride. They have a very wide gear range, allowing you to conquer the steepest hills, and they have medium-sized tires making them more efficient on pavement than a mountain bike. The least expensive hybrids start around $250-$300.
You should also consider a category similar to the hybrid that manufacturers call by different names: fitness bikes, flat-bar roadbikes, etc. These bikes are even lighter and more efficient on pavement than hybrids, because they eliminate some of the heavier features like suspension forks and seatposts. They have skinnier tires and a more aerodynamic riding position, which will make it easier to cover long distances but may also be less comfortable to you. A mountain bike also makes a good choice for beginners. They start at affordable prices ($200), are versatile both on and off road (maybe not that fast and efficient on road), give a stable, comfortable, upright ride, and can usually mount a rack to carry anything you want to take with you. If you are staying on pavement, have the shop switch the knobby dirt tires for smooth pavement tires, which will make your 42-mile tour a lot easier. - Finally, if you are getting back into cycling, I would recommend that both you and your daughter take our free, one-day Savvy Cyclist class to learn traffic skills, light maintenance tips, and how to lock up your bike securely.
New cyclist seeks advice about sore butt
Q: I am pleased to say I have been bit by the biking bug, but boy does my bottom hurt! I have been riding everyday for almost two weeks now and am enjoying the outdoors, freedom, and exercise. I have a standard run-of-the-mill mountain bike and my seat was not very comfortable. This resulted in a sore bottom for a couple of days . . . so I purchased a new "gel cushion" seat to no avail . . . still sore. Do you think a full-suspension bike would help?
I would like something I can ride around NYC/Brooklyn and upstate NY. Any advice would be much appreciated. Please save my butt.
A: Dear Bummed in Brooklyn,
I have some bad news for you: Bike butt is a normal breaking-in process, and you can't totally avoid it when you're starting out. But with the right gear and riding methods, you can minimize or almost eliminate it. Here are some tips:
- Make sure the bike is the right size for you, and that the seatpost is adjusted to the correct height. Bikes that are too tall or seatposts that are too high will increase pressure on your pelvis as your legs reach the bottom of the pedal stroke.
Bike size: For a mountain bike or hybrid, there should be a minimum of 2 inches of stand-over clearance above the top tube on the frame when straddling the bike flat-footed. For a road bike it can be a minimum of 1 inch.
Seatpost height: The seatpost should be adjusted so that there is a slight bend in your knees at the bottom of the pedal stroke (with the ball of your foot on the pedal). Don't have the seat so high that your knee goes straight at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Also make sure that the seat is level to the ground (some cyclists prefer a slight tilt in one direction or the other, but your starting point should be level). You can also adjust the seat forwards or backwards a couple inches. It takes some experimenting. - Should I get a dual suspension mountain bike? Get that if you plan to ride a lot on unpaved, technical trails. If you are going to be mostly on pavement, that type of bike is heavy and inefficient, and may in some ways worsen the problem by making you work harder to cover the same mileage. Bike butt isn't caused by a bumpy ride, but by most of your weight being borne by a part of your body that is not used to having weight there.
- Say no to gel. Gel seat covers are heavy and tend to slip around on the saddle, without greatly increasing comfort on longer rides.
- Should I get a suspension seatpost? Maybe. I've used them before, and found that some designs didn't work very well, because they tended to get stuck, and wouldn't compress with bumps. A suspension seatpost isn't going to work comfort miracles. Suspension seatposts also have a weight and complexity penalty. Carbon seatposts can take some of the rough stuff out of your ride, but they work better with a shorter bike frame, where a lot of seatpost is sticking out.
- The biggest factor is saddle shape, not padding. Everyone's pelvic bone is different, so one person's favorite saddle will feel like sitting on an anvil to someone else. Try out some models at your local bike shop to see what's comfortable.
- Good-quality bike shorts help too. If you are not into the skin-tight racing look, you can buy bike shorts that look like regular shorts with padding inside.
- Alter your position on the bike sometimes during the ride. Standing gets the blood flowing back into numb areas. Stand and pedal when going uphill. Stand and coast for a few seconds on the flats.
- Bike more, not less. (Of course we bikies are always going to say that!). The more often you bike, the more your body will adjust to being in the saddle and having weight there. People who try to bike any more than a mile or 2 only a couple times a year will continually experience bike butt, and their legs will never get strong enough to make longer trips faster.



